Method of making shoes



Dec. 1935- E. G. W ORTHINGTON 2,022,908

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Dec. 6, 1954 Fig.1-

Patented Dec. 3, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING SHOESApplication December 6, 1934, Serial No. 756,240

6 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of making shoes.

An object of the invention is to provide a methed for making shoesincluding improved lasting operations in which the upper is mounted onthe last in an improved and novel manner preparatory for attachment ofthe sole to the welt and subsequent removal of the last from the shoe toleave a filler space in the shoe, the margin of which was formed by atemplet on the last extending beyond the sole of the last.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved method formaking shoes with greater accuracy and precision than by usual methods,and including the provision of a templet in connection with the lastagainst which the inner marginal edge of the shoe upper and welt areheld by the wiper jaws during the attachment of the sole to the welt.

Other objects will appear from the following description, referencebeing made to the annexed drawing, in Which Fig. 1 is an invertedperspective view of a shoe upper having a Welt in connection therewithbefore the upper is mounted on the last.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of an improved last used in making shoes bymy present method.

Fig. 3 is an inverted perspective view of the shoe upper mounted on thelast before application of the wiper jaws thereto.

Fig. 4 is a view showing the upper held on the last by the wiper jawsand the welt coated with cement preparatory for attachment of the sole.

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view through the vamp and sole of a shoemade according to the present invention.

The shoe upper I, as illustrated in Fig. 1 of the drawing, is ofconventional construction and is equipped with a welt 2 which may extendall the way around the shoe upper, as shown, or not, as desired. Also,the upper may be lined or unlined as preferred.

The bcdy 3 of the last is of conventional construction and is adaptedand constructed for use in practicing the present invention by having atemplet l attached to the sole of the last and having its marginal edge5 separated from the edge of the last by a space 6 entirely around thetemplet. The templet may be made of any desired material or substanceand attached to the last by removable and replaceable screws 1 in thecentral portion thereof and tacks or nails 8 along the marginal portionthereof.

The first step in the making of a shoe by my improved method consists inplacing the welted upper on the last in the relationship shown in Fig.3, in which the inner marginal edges of the upper l and the welt 2 areagainst the edge 5 of the templet 4. The templet 4 is of approximatelythe same thickness as the combined thickness of the marginal edges ofthe welt and upper, including the lining, if a lining is used in theupper. The inner marginal edges of the welt and upper are temporarilyattached to the last and held against the edge 5 of the templet 4 by anumber of tacks 9 driven through the margins of the welt and upper andinto the last.

A coat or layer of cement II is applied to the entire lower surface ofthe welt after which the inner marginal edges of the welt and upper arepressed and supported against the edge 5 of the templet, by applicationof the wiper jaws ID to the space between the welt and the upper, asshown, and in a manner well known. The tacks 9 may then be removed.

Then, the outsole l2, having a coating or layer of cement covering itsupper surface, is placed upon and pressed against the welt in positionin which the margins of the outsole and the welt are approximately even.In this way, the outsole will be held in secure connection with thewelt, but will not adhere to the templet because the templet is notcoated with cement.

Next, the shoe is removed from the wiper jaws, or vice versa, and thenthe margins of the outsole and the welt are rough-rounded while the shoeis on the last.

Next, the outsole and welt are attached together by a row of Goodyearstitching 13, after which the last is pulled from the shoe leaving aspace for a filler piece it. The space in which the filler piece It isplaced is accurately defined by the inner edges of the upper and weltand by the cement-coated inner surface of the outsole [2, said spacebeing of the same size as the templet 4 against the outer edges of whichthe inner edges of the welt and upper were held, as described. Thefiller piece [4 having a coating of cement on its lower surface isplaced in the filler space and adhesively attached to the cementcoatedsurface of the outsole, after which the sole and filler are leveled. Asock lining I5 is then placed in the shoe and the finishing operationsare performed.

' It should be apparent that, by this method, a shoe may be made moreaccurately as to size and provided with a space to receive a fillerpiece that will fit closely against all portions of the inner edges ofthe welt and upper. Distortion of the upper by pulling any portionthereof further over the last than any other portion is positivelyprevented by the templet 4.

This invention facilitates the manufacture of shoes where precision insize is desired. It is possible that the manner and the order in whichsome of the steps of the invention are performed may be varied withoutdeparture from the nature and principle of the invention.

I claim:

1. The method of making a shoe which consists in mechanically pressingand holding the marginal edges of a shoe upper and welt against the edgeof a templet on the sole of a last,'adhe'- sively attaching the sole tothe welt while the shoe upper and welt are held with their inner edgespressed against the templet, removing the last from the shoe, securing afiller piece in the filler space that was occupied by the templet whilethe shoe was on the last, and placing a sock lining in the shoe. 7 l

- 2. The method of making a shoe which consists in placing a shoe upperhaving a welt at- V tached thereto on a last that has a'templet attachedto the bottom surface thereof and spaced inwardly from the marginal edgeof the last, mechanically pressing and holding the marginal portion ofthe shoe upper against the bottom of the last and pressing and holdingthe edges ofthe upper and welt against the edge of said templet,adhesively attaching a sole to the welt while the upper and welt areheld with their inner edges spaced inwardly from the marginal edge ofthe 1 last, mechanically pressing and holding the edges of the upper andwelt against the edge of said templet and supporting the outer marginalportion of said welt; adhesively attaching a sole to the welt while theupper and welt are held with their inner edges pressed against thetemplet; stitching the welt and sole together, removing the last fromthe shoe, securing a filler piece in the filler space that was occupiedby the templet while the shoe was on the last, and finishing the shoe.

4. The method of making a shoe which consists in mechanically pressingand holding the edges of an attached upper and welt against a templetonthe bottom of a shoe last, adhesively attaching a sole to the weltwhile the upper and welt are held with the inner edges pressed againstthe templet, removing the last from the shoe, securing a filler in thefiller space that was occupied by the templet while the shoe was on thelast, and finishing the shoe.

5. The method of making a shoe which consists in mechanically pressingand holding the edges of an attached upper and welt against a templet onthe bottom of a shoe last, adhesively attaching a sole to the welt whilethe upper and welt are held with the inner edges pressed against thetemplet, stitching the welt and sole together, removing the last fromthe shoe, securing a filler in the filler space that was occupied by thetemplet while the shoe was on the last, placing a sock lining in theshoe, and finishing the shoe. 7

6. That method of manufacturing pre-welted shoes which comprisesremovably positioning in EDGAR G. WORTHINGTON.

